Lest We Forget

Yesterday morning, we attended a Memorial Day Service at the American cemetery in Draguignan. The service was on Sunday morning because, surprise, today is not a holiday, three-day-weekend in France *sigh, I was getting so used to that schedule*.

It was a very cool experience to see. Phil wasn't involved in any official way at all, so we blended in with the public and hung out in the back to let the elderly in attendance have the available seats and in case the kids started crying. I was surprised at the number of people (mostly French--older French) who were there, because from our earlier conversations with French friends we found they didn't know the what, when, or why of Memorial Day (nor does there seem to be an equivalent in France).

Two months after the Normandy invasion, soldiers from the US Seventh Army, as well as units from the French First Army, stormed the beaches of the French Riviera in an effort to provide a new front in the fight against the Germans. While operation was somewhat controversial among the Allied political-military leadership at the time, it provided new major supply lines with the liberation of the ports in Toulon and Marseille. The invasion was not without cost, this cemetery, the Rhone American Cemetery is the final resting place for 861 American soldiers, from Private to Brigadier General.

In a touching gesture of gratitude, every year, the local Franco-American Club pays for one of the fallen soldier's families to come to France for the ceremony. This year, the fallen soldier was a Private First Class, who just before shipping out, had signed a contract to play professional baseball with the NY Yankees.

The landscaping is beautiful in its simplicity, and the grounds are impeccably maintained. There are acres of grass---an huge rarity in the region- combined with the typical cypress and olive trees of Provence. Just walking through the imposing, iron gates at the entrance is a moving experience.

Living in this France has helped me appreciate how much Americans honor and esteem those who serve and have served in the military. We've seen with our own eyes, and heard from French men serving in the French military, that it's not necessarily the same here. The level of patriotism and love of country don't seem to compare either. It's hard to explain, the French are very proud of their country, but not necessarily in the same way. They are proud of their culture, their food, their art, etc. But, the military is not treated with the same respect. I've never, ever seen a house flying a French flag, or anything equivalent to yellow ribbons, or Support-the-Troops signs or bumper stickers. For many, it seems that military service is the same as any other job.

For us, the ceremony, which included speakers from France and the US, as well as the Navy Band from Naples, was a well-needed dose of "God Bless America" on Memorial Day. Our nation is a great nation. We have made mistakes but we've done so, so much good. Our nation is one that sacrificed so many, and in return, we have asked only for enough land to bury our dead. The men who died here believed in freedom and peace and fought so that others could have it. The wall of the chapel in the background is inscribed with the words "We who lie here, died so that future generations might live in peace."

I love being an American, and here, we are often assumed to be English due to our mauvaise accents. When asked, we respond quickly and with a great sense of pride "...and why shouldn't we... We are Americans."

If you are planning a trip to Europe, you can find a list of the American Cemeteries, like this one, at http://www.abmc.gov, or maybe you can meet us in Normandy next year.